uPVC vs Aluminium vs Timber: Double-Glazed Window Costs Compared

How much do uPVC windows cost in Australia?

A typical uPVC (vinyl) double-glazed window replacement costs around $5,550 per window installed, with most jobs landing in the $3,900 – $6,500 range once you include removal of the old frame, flashing and GST. That makes uPVC the cheapest of the three mainstream frame materials we track, ahead of aluminium and well ahead of timber — but the price gap is only part of the story, because each material also differs in lifespan, maintenance and how well it performs in Australian conditions.

We build these figures from installer labour hours at local rates plus current material costs, then check the result against market pricing and real quotes, so the numbers below reflect what's actually being charged this quarter rather than list prices.

The full comparison

Here's how the four frame types in our model stack up on typical cost, usual range and expected lifespan:

Material	Typical	Usual range	Lifespan
Aluminium (thermally broken)	$5,000	$3,900 – $6,500	30-45 years
Vinyl / uPVC	$5,550	$4,350 – $7,200	25-35 years
Composite	$6,100	$4,750 – $7,950	30-50 years
Timber	$8,350	$6,500 – $10,800	30-60 years

The spread between the cheapest and most expensive frame choice is large enough to change a whole-house job by thousands of dollars, so it's worth understanding what you're paying for at each level rather than defaulting to the cheapest option.

Why the price differs by material

• uPVC is moulded rather than fabricated, so there's less labour per window and the material itself is cheaper. It doesn't conduct heat, needs no repainting, and resists coastal salt air well — its main weakness is looks, since the profile is chunkier than slim aluminium sightlines and the colour range is more limited.
• Aluminium (thermally broken) sits above uPVC mostly because of the frame fabrication and the thermal break strip that stops the frame itself conducting heat or cold. Older, non-thermally-broken aluminium is cheaper again, but it performs noticeably worse for insulation and is being phased out of new builds in most states.
• Composite frames (a timber core wrapped in uPVC or aluminium) cost more again because they combine two manufacturing processes, but you get timber's insulation and look without the yearly maintenance.
• Timber is the most expensive because it's the most labour-intensive to fabricate and finish, and it needs periodic painting or staining to stop it swelling, rotting or fading — a real ongoing cost that doesn't show up in the install price.

Which frame suits which situation

The comparison guide covers glazing units in general; the decision that actually matters for most Australian homes is frame material, and it comes down to where the house is and what it needs to survive:

• Coastal homes — uPVC or powder-coated aluminium hold up best against salt corrosion; raw aluminium and untreated timber fare worst.
• Bushfire-prone areas (BAL-rated zones) — aluminium frames are generally easier to certify to AS 3959 bushfire construction requirements than uPVC, which can soften under radiant heat; check the BAL rating required for your block before choosing.
• Heritage or character homes — timber is usually the only frame council planning rules will approve for street-facing windows, even though it costs more.
• Tight budgets or rental upgrades — uPVC gives the biggest jump in insulation per dollar spent, since you're not paying for a thermal break or paint finish.
• Large openings or sliding doors — aluminium's strength lets it hold larger glass panes with a slimmer frame, which uPVC and timber struggle to match at the same size.

The running-cost side of the equation

Frame material affects more than the upfront bill. A well-sealed uPVC or thermally broken aluminium window cuts heat loss and gain compared with old single-glazed aluminium, which lowers the load on Split system air conditioning in summer and heating in winter — often enough to notice on the power bill within a year or two, though we don't have a reliable dollar figure to put on that saving for your specific home. Timber adds a maintenance line few people budget for: repainting every several years, which isn't part of the install cost above.

If you're comparing a full-house upgrade against doing it room by room, it's worth pricing both ways — see our Window replacement guide for sizing and project scope — since per-window costs drop once an installer is on site for a full day rather than a single opening.

Getting a fair price

Frame material is the single biggest lever on a window quote, but installer margins vary too. Before signing anything, it's worth running the quote through our "is my quote fair" tool to see how it compares with the typical and range figures above for your chosen frame and region — a quote that's well outside the mid-range for the same material and glazing spec is worth asking a follow-up question or two about.